It was a misty morning in the hills as we walked early out of Sarria to Portomarin. We had about 22km to walk so we hit the road by about 8.20am. It is difficult to get going any earlier than this due to the fact that most times getting your desayuno prior to 8am is difficult. You can sometimes get it at 7 or 7.30 but by the time you eat and get going it is always past 8. And if you have paid for it you don't want to be walking 5km up the track and paying for it again at a different joint just to get an early start. By the time you finish at that place all the people who stayed for brekky at your hotel are walking past you. Time net even, wallet sans euros.
So below is another picture of one of the overpasses we wandered past on a foggy morning in Galicia. Note the mountains are not as high and rugged as some of the places we passed a week or so ago. The air is cooler as you get further into Galicia, the mist hangs around for longer.
Galicia is known by the locals as the region of a thousand rivers. You are never far away from flowing water or a little brook or lake. Here you see the kids crossing a little stream early in the morning, they still have their polar fleeces on in this pic so it would have been first thing, they usually get packed away after about 30 to 40 minutes tops, once you get the body heat up the jumper soon becomes uncomfortable. We have only used them once or twice.
Another watercourse. We saw a few of these where the Camino ran parallel with the creek so the bridge was sort of on the side of the road. The Zozz having a rest, jumper packed away already.
I think if you were from Scotland, or maybe some other parts of the UK you might be used to stone walls and stone buildings. I'm not, I'm from Dubbo so I love 'em. Just take a moment to have a look at some of the elements in this image. Morning fog settled between the trees in the background, overhanging trees softly shading the edges of the path from what little sun filters through the mist, a cobbled track, a low stone wall disappearing into the distance on the left and an ivy covered stone building on the right. The morning mist was thick, it stuck to your clothes as you walked through it, the air was still and clear and the sounds of your passing were muffled into noiselessness by the soft surrounds. As you wend your way through Galicia towards the ultimate destination on this pilgrimage you pass through so many moments that take your breath away. It is peaceful and beautiful so often, yet always a slog. We met an American girl on our first or second day on the road, she had started walking in Roncevailles near the French border. When she discovered it was our first day she said, 'Oh, it is sooo wonderful.', and then went on to tell us how to deal with blisters, dehydration and other ailments we could expect.
Its a crazy thing this Way of St James. A true paradox.
You just can't help stopping and taking photos. The few I have added here are just a token of what we have collected. I mean look at that, we spend our days wandering through this stuff. I would like to take this opportunity to thank the College Council of SJLC for approving my sabbatical leave.
The signpost below is besmirched with graffiti but if you look closely you will see the letters K 100. 100km to go. Look at my beautiful babies. What a joy to share such an awesome adventure with the people you are in love with. H-mann 99 with his adolescent swagger, the Zozz with her beautiful smile and trusting way. They are such great kids. I would put a picture of Monica up there too but I am forbidden from doing so.
K 100
These things are interesting. They are grain storage huts. Built of stone and brick they have slots or holes through them for ventilation. About 4 or 5 metres long and built up off the ground on a stand or stone legs, they occur regularly along the way in the little farming villages. Only about a metre or so wide.
We finally made our way into Portomarin, it sits nestled on the River Mino, another old pilgrim town. We crossed the river over a high modern bridge about 200 meters long to be greeted by these steps. See the little blue sign on the left with the pilgrim and the white arrow directing us up the escalades. Just what you need after 22 kilometres in the Spanish heat. They were thigh busters I can tell ya.
Below are a couple of images of lovely stone dwellings we passed along the way today, not really in order but I just through them in. The sort of stuff you become immune to as you pass, but so amazing.
And further up the hill from the afore-mentioned steps was this church, our hotel was (of course) a bit further up the hill from here on the street to the left, out of this shot by about 500m. Note the open cobbled plaza in front of the church. This was about 3.30pm I suppose when we walked into town, at about 6pm the place was jumping, the cafes and bars that surround the plaza are all full of peregrinos and locals from mid afternoon (6 or 7pm) until late.
Thus ended the day. We found our hotel, met up with a couple of people we passed along the way during the day who were now travelling with Camino Ways as well. Many people have joined the Camino at Sarria, it is the last town before the mandatory 100km walking distance to gain your Compostela (certificate of pilgrimage) in Santiago. The way is becoming more and more crowded as Santiago approaches as well because on the 25th of July is the Feast Day of St James, many peregrinos are aiming to hit town at that time or just before. Its a public holiday in Spain, their national saint and all. Alas we hit Santiago the day after on the 26th (this Friday) but I understand the festivities will still be well underway. As our loved ones in Aus are settling into a Friday night at about 9 or 10pm we shall be walking into that famous cathedral about Friday lunch, getting our Compostelas and approaching that sacred shrine.
A lot to look forward to this week.
Buen Camino Peregrinos
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